Repair 7

Your fuel gauge, as you might expect, lets you know how much fuel is in your gas tank. A defective fuel gauge can be a symptom of several problems such as a blown fuse, a broken circuit in the dash panel, or a fractured float -- the part attached to the sending unit in the intake fuel pump. In modern cars, you have two fuel pumps: the intake and main fuel pumps. The intake fuel pump is responsible for getting the gas up and out of the gas tank and registering the amount of fuel in the tank. The main fuel pump, located underneath the car, then grabs the fuel and sends it to the engine.

Instructions

Blown Fuse

1

Access the fuse box. Consult your cars manual to determine the exact location of the fuse box.

2

Remove the cover of the fuse box using your hands. Flip it over to view the schematic diagram to determine which fuse controls the fuel gauge.

3

Remove the fuse by hand and look at it in the light to ensure the element is not broken.

4

Replace the fuse if the element is broken simply by inserting a new fuse where you pulled out the old fuse.

5

Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position and see if the fuel gauge is now working. You do not need to start the car.

Broken Circuit in Dash Panel

6

Insert two specialty hooks on both sides of the dash panel to free up the panel enough to access the back of the panel.

7

Disconnect all electrical wire leads to the back of the panel manually. This action is similar to unplugging an appliance from a wall socket.

8

Pull out dash panel and place on the work bench. With a magnifying glass and ample lighting, inspect the back of the dash panel for a broken solder circuit. This is a slow and tedious process. If a broken solder circuit does exist, you will be able to see the breaking point in the circuitry.

9

Replace the entire dash panel by inserting a new dash panel where the old dash panel had been. Reconnect all the electrical wire leads manually and then snap the new dash panel in place with a swift push using your hands.

Fractured Float

10

Consult your cars manual to confirm the location of the access panel to the fuel tank panel. If the fuel tank panel is located in the trunk of the vehicle, remove all the contents in the trunk of the car which includes the spare tire and jack and all cluttered debris, and the cloth lining in order to find the access panel to the fuel tank. The fuel tank panel is usually fastened with 4 to 8 10-mm bolts.

11

Unfasten the bolts with an air ratchet and 8 to 10mm sockets to remove the fuel tank access panel. Disconnect the wiring harness that leads to the intake fuel pump sending unit with your hands.

12

Use the brass hammer over the brass punch to loosen the additional panel that leads directly into the fuel tank and then use your hands to completely pullout the panel which includes the sending unit.

13

Take the entire sending unit to the work bench to inspect. You should now be able to visually identify if the float is loaded with fuel and see the fracture if one exists. The float resembles and works like a ping-pong ball in water.

14

To confirm that this is the problem, attach the new sending unit to the wiring harness and place the key in the on position -- move float up and down -- the fuel gauge should go up and down.

Polyurethane and nylon tubing are important elements of even the most basic pneumatic systems. Though both offer an economic alternative to traditional reinforced hose, knowing the differences between them will dramatically improve the efficiency of your system.

Flexibility

Naturally flexible, polyurethane has better flexing abilities than nylon. Though nylon can endure repeated flexing without fatigue, polyurethane is more suitable for applications when a tighter bend radius is needed. It is thus better suited for tight bending in and through equipment, such as in robotics and pneumatic control machinery.

Abrasion and Working Pressure

Both polyurethane and nylon tubing have excellent resistance to abrasion from fuels, oils and abrasion; however, nylon offers better heat and chemical resistance as well as higher working pressure. Nylon has superior crack resistance and is thus an industrial standard for applications requiring greater resistance to chemicals, heat and working pressure.

Usage

Polyurethane tubing is commonly used in medium pressure applications such as solid, liquid and gaseous dispensing and fuel line and wire abrasion protection. Nylon is a common choice in hydraulic lines and refrigeration, air conditioning systems, fuel and oil transfer and chemical transport.

Aligning a cars trunk may seem like a trivial part of car maintenance but it is essential to prevent rust. If a trunk is not properly aligned, the seals around the edges will not sit properly and water may pool on the sides or even inside of the trunk. To properly align your trunk, you will need a pair of calipers and a wrench set. It is also helpful to have an assistant hold the trunk while you measure it and make adjustments.

Instructions

1

Turn off the car. Pop open the trunk by pulling on the trunk release button inside the cab of your car.

2

Pull the trunk lid halfway up, and then have your assistant hold onto it while you reach inside the trunk and loosen the bolts on the supporting arms. There will be four bolts--two on each side. Do not remove the bolts--merely loosen them, because all you will be doing is changing the position by millimeters. There is a degree of play within the bolt holes because of the clearance between the bolt hole walls and the bolts themselves. Loosening the bolts will allow you to shift the bolts within the bolt holes.

3

Lower the trunk lid, but do not let it engage the trunk latch. Have your assistant keep supporting it. Place calipers on the right side seam and measure the gap. Write this number down so you dont forget it. Measure the seam on the left side and compare the two numbers. They should be the same. If they are not, have your assistant shift the trunk lid until the numbers are the same.

4

Measure the gaps at the front and back of each side, to ensure that the trunk lid is not slanted to one side or another. When it is properly aligned, have your assistant stay perfectly still. Access the inside of the trunk by folding the rear seats down and crawling inside the trunk. Tighten the left outer bolts and then the right inner bolt until they are snug but not tight--you are just trying to keep the lid in place for now. Tighten the bottom left bolt and then the right top bolt until they are all the way down, and then go back and tighten the first bolts all the way down.

5

Crawl out of the trunk, fold the seats back up and have your assistant close the trunk.

A mechanical automotive thermostat usually mounts in one of two locations on the engine -- on top, connected to the upper radiator hose or on the bottom, connected to the inlet on the water pump. Replacement of a top-mounted thermostat requires less time and fewer tools. Fortunately for Chevy Lumina V6 owners, the thermostat location is on the top of the engine. This makes the task of locating and replacing the thermostat an easier process.

Instructions

1

Open the engine hood on your V6 Lumina by pulling the hood release latch on the drivers-side kick panel, under the dashboard.

2

Locate the upper radiator hose connected to the back of the radiator.

3

Follow the upper radiator hose from the back of the radiator to the location where the hose connects to the engine. The hose mounts to the thermostat housing lid. The thermostat rests submerged in coolant inside the housing.

The Mazda MPV is a four-door sedan designed for fuel efficiency. If your Mazda MPV isnt starting properly, you could have a dead battery or no fuel in the car. A broken fuel gauge can give you the wrong information and allow you to run the car down. A dead battery will not be able to spark the motor and keep the car from starting. You can troubleshoot your Mazda MPV by checking the fuel and the battery.

Instructions

1

Open the hood to the Mazda MPV. Locate the battery; its to the right of the engine.

2

Use a socket wrench to remove the battery terminals. Inspect the battery terminals for any corrosion.

3

Use a wire brush and a can of soda to clean the corrosion off of the terminals. Replace the terminals on the battery and try to start the car.

4

Smell the battery for a rotten egg smell. This is sulfur and means that the battery is dead. Replace the battery if you detect this odor.

5

Use a different car and a pair of jumper cables to jump-start your MPV. Allow the car to sit for about five minutes in order to charge the MPVs battery.

6

Turn the MPV off and then try to start the car. If the car will not start, you need to change the battery.

7

Add a gallon of fuel to the car and then try to start it. Replace the fuel gauge if the car starts up.

Each gasoline fuel-burning vehicle on the road produces fumes from combustion processes within the engine. Car manufacturers have devised an internal vehicle system for retaining the harmful fumes until they are completely combusted, called the Evaporative Emission Control System, or EVAP. A main component within this system is the charcoal canister. This container holds gasoline fumes until the engine can burn them through combustion. However, charcoal canisters can seem to fail, requiring a testing procedure to pinpoint the leak within the EVAP system.

Instructions

1

Locate the charcoal canister. The canister is a black cylinder, commonly installed in one of the engine compartment corners.

2

Visually inspect the canister. Make sure there are no obvious cracks or openings along its exterior.

3

Attach a handheld vacuum pump to the purge valve residing on the canisters topside.

4

Turn the hand pump on and observe the valve. A properly functioning canister and purge valve assembly will react to the hand pump by opening the valves assembly.

5

Listen and look at the purge valve as the hand pump remains on. The valve should stay open, but no vacuum should leak from the canister in the process. Replace the purge valve and canister configuration if a vacuum leak is detected.

6

Detach the hand pump from the purge valve. Turn the car on in park and allow it to idle. Observe the engine compartment. Verify that there are no fumes emanating from the canister.

An induction motor works on the principle that a current is created in a coil through which a magnet (magnetic field) is moved. The current is then able to drive a motor.

Problems with Torque Ripple

In applications like actuator motors for power steering in your car, torque pulsations or ripples can affect the power in the steering mechanisms or cause unwanted noise that bothers the driver. This ripple or pulsation must be dealt with in the induction actuator motor.

Causes of Torque Ripple

This torque ripple is caused as the magnetic field in the induction motor changes direction and consequently the current in the coil also reverses polarity. This problem has also been prevalent in brushless electric motors.

Research into Torque Ripple

Places like the University of Ohio are working on ways to eliminate or minimize torque ripple in induction and electric motors. Researchers feel that the torque ripple is basically a design problem and that it can be reduced or totally eliminated by creating the correct design geometry on the motor.

The intake manifold gasket helps manage the flow of intake air, coolant and oil by sealing the cylinder head to the intake manifold. You can replace the gasket yourself to save a few hundred dollars.

Parts

The cost of the parts required to repair or replace your intake manifold gasket ranges from $25 to $100 in 2010, according to RepairPal, depending on the year and make of your car. This range applies if you have a 2005 Ford Taurus or a 2011 BMW 750Li.

Labor

The cost of labor to replace the gasket is expensive relative to the cost of the parts. As of 2010, expect to pay a mechanic between $325 and $425 to replace the gasket.

Total Cost

The total cost, therefore, to have a mechanic replace your intake manifold gasket ranges from $350 to $525.

The fuel pump on a motor vehicle pumps the gasoline through the engine to be ignited and create power. The fuel must pass through a fuel filter to ensure that no contaminants reach the engine. The filter traps large particles of dust and debris, stopping them from affecting the engine.

Start Difficulties

The first sign of a malfunctioning fuel pump filter is difficulty starting the car. The filter will start to block the flow of gasoline into the engine. This is mainly caused by blockage or clogging, but can also occur from a break in the filter or a misinstallation. The problem will escalate over time if untreated, and what began as a difficult start that took several attempts will become a complete inability to start the engine. Once the filter hits this point of damage the only fix is to replace it.

Stalling

A significant indicator of a faulty fuel pump filter is the stalling of the engine during use. The stall will most likely occur on an upward or downward slope (depending on the placement in the car) when the fuel is being pushed through the filter rapidly. The stall happens because of an interrupted or inconstant flow of gasoline and feels much like the car does when running out of gasoline. At this point, however, the fuel pump filter may just need a quick repair or cleaning.

Acceleration

The fuel pump filters earliest indicator of problems manifests as stunted acceleration. If the car starts running sluggishly or unresponsively it will mean the fuel pump is either off alignment or in the beginning stages of a clog. There is a good chance at this point that a simple fuel injector cleaner solution may fix this problem and the vehicle will start running efficiently again.

You can obtain duplicate keys for your 1990 Volvo DL, whether your keys are lost or you want to keep extra keys on hand. Any Volvo dealership or locksmith will create duplicate keys for you upon your request. 1990 Volvo DLs do not come equipped with smart keys, which are more expensive to duplicate than traditional car keys.

Instructions

1

Call your local Volvo dealership or locksmith to request duplicate copies of the keys for your 1990 Volvo DL.

2

Schedule a time to visit the dealership to have new keys made or a time to have a locksmith come to your home or office to duplicate your car keys.

3

Provide the dealership or locksmith with proof of ownership of the Volvo. Youll need your drivers license and either the title, insurance information or registration to prove ownership.

4

Pay for your new keys.

General Motors introduced the optispark distributor in 1992. Its purpose is to optimize ignition timing to provide more power for the engine. The optispark distributor is prone to malfunctions resulting from moisture and rust.

Misfiring

CorvetteFever.com says optispark failure is almost inevitable. The most common failure is misfiring. The optispark becomes misaligned, throwing off the spark plug timing.

Hard Starting

A bad optispark can make the vehicle have trouble starting. Loud and unusual noises when the engine starts can be an indication of optispark trouble.

Poor Power

Reduced engine power is a common symptom of optispark failure. Acceleration that is slower than normal is the most obvious indication of reduced engine power.

Check Engine Light

The check engine light usually will come on when the vehicle experiences optispark issues. This makes diagnosing the problem easier. Mechanic shops can connect to your cars computer and extract codes that tell the exact problem.

A turbocharger is a gas compressor used to generate power in an internal combustion engine. Having your turbocharger wheel repaired is more economical than purchasing a new one.

Problems

One of the most common causes of turbocharger performance problems is failing shaft bearings. This causes the compressor and turbine wheels to rub together, resulting in damaged wheels, a slower wheel speed, less pressure and severely decreased performance.

Replacement

If the shaft bearings are damaged or have failed, replace the shaft and turbine wheel. As this involves welding, doing this yourself is not recommended. This also involves wheel balancing, another task that should be entrusted to a professional.

Cleaning

Some performance issues may be solved by cleaning. Clean turbochargers wheels using a solvent and wire brush. Abrasive cleaning materials and sandblasting should be avoided.

A Suburban transmission mount is a block of rubber, bonded between a metal plate on top and a threaded stud centered on the bottom. The mount fits between the transmission tail-shaft and the cross member. It bolts to the two threaded holes under the transmission tail shaft, and to the bracket on the cross member, with a threaded stud. The transmission mount failure occurs when the rubber gets stretched or becomes separated from the top plate or the threaded stud on the bottom. Even when new, some transmission mounts allow for movement and noise.

Instructions

Remove the Transmission Mount

1

Drive the Suburban onto a set of ramps, and apply the emergency brake.

2

Place blocks on the front and rear side of the rear wheels, to prevent the truck from rolling.

3

Go under the vehicle, using a creeper. Place the tools and hydraulic bottle jack within reach.

4

Remove the two mount bolts on the bottom of the transmission tail shaft, as well as the nut from the threaded stud in the cross member. It may be necessary to hold the rubber mount with a pair of lockjaw pliers, while removing the nut from the cross member.

5

Place a bottle jack under the tail of the transmission, and jack it high enough to remove the old transmission mount.

6

Insert the new transmission mount with the threaded stud through the hole in the cross member bracket.

7

Thread the two top bolts into the tail shaft of the transmission, and tighten.

8

Lower the transmission, centered onto the cross member, with the threaded stud through the cross member bracket, and tighten.

9

Remove the blocks from the rear wheels, and back the vehicle off the ramps.

Produced by General Motors in USA, the Chevy Blazer is a mid-sized sport utility vehicle (SUV). It could be equipped with several different types of engines. All Blazer SUVs require periodic adjustment, often referred to as "alignment." The factory specifications for the alignment are the same for all 1991 Blazer models. These specifications are given for a vehicle at curb height with one-half tank of fuel.

Camber

Measured in degrees, camber is the outward or inward tilt of the wheel in relation to the center of the vehicle. The Blazer camber angle should be the same on both left and right wheels. Camber angles must be +0.8 degrees with the measuring accuracy of 0.80 degrees.

Caster

Caster is both the rearward and the forward tilt of the steering knuckle from the true vertical. Caster is the measurement in angles that is responsible for directional stability. The Blazer caster angle should be the same on both left and right wheels. The angle must be +2.0 degrees with the maximum allowable difference of 1.00 degree.

Toe

Toe is the difference between the leading and trailing inside edges of the front wheels. Total angles on all 1991 Blazer models must be +0.15 degrees with measuring range of 0.10 degrees. Toe-in-left and right side should be set separately per wheel and steering wheel must be held in straight ahead position within 5.0 degrees.

A camshaft controls the timing of valves on an automobile engine. Lobes on a camshaft, called cams, push on the valves to open the valves. Springs on the valves close the valves. Camshafts ride on thin films of oil on camshaft bearings. A camshaft bearing goes bad, or is "wiped," when oil fails to get to the camshaft bearing. Your vehicle engine will not operate if a camshaft bearing gets wiped. The engine would seize and shut down. Regular maintenance on your vehicle, such as regularly checking the oil, prevents a camshaft from failing.

Popping Noises

A popping noise develops in the engine as a camshaft begins to fail. As the camshaft begins to fail, the timing starts to go bad, which causes the engine to develop a popping noise. This popping or backfire could indicate bad valves or valve springs, or it could be that the camshaft is failing. Mechanic John Hix says that with any engine he can hear whether the engine is not running right. The timing will lead to louder popping noises as the camshaft gets worse.

Poor Gas Mileage

Poor gas mileage will manifest itself as your car loses power and burns more gas. You will find the car burning more gas to get from point A to point B as the camshaft goes bad.

Loss of Performance

The loss of engine performance emerges as the timing deteriorates. The engine power will go way down and your engine timing will be way off. When climbing hills or trying to pass, you will notice the car will have no accelerating power. As soon as this sign manifests itself, you should have the vehicle checked by a mechanic.

Metal in the Oil

A check of the engine oil might reveal flakes. Prior to the shaft wiping, metal parts will come off the lobes of the camshaft. These naturally wear from use. Excessive wear means they need replacement. Metal flakes indicate that metal in the camshaft has contacted the metal of the bearing. The bearing metal is made from a softer metal, hence the term "wiped bearing." The metal from the shaft literally wipes the softer metal from the bearing. These metal fragments will then end up in the lube oil system; when you drain the oil you will notice metal flakes floating in the oil.

The Jeep Commander is an all terrain vehicle, widely used in off-road conditions. In such extreme conditions, damage to the side mirrors is a possibility. The side mirrors assembly on a Jeep Commander is secured inside the front door trim panels of the side doors. To remove the mirrors, you must also remove the side doors; without doing so, you cannot disconnect the mirrors assembly.

Instructions

1

Open the side door of the Jeep Commander. Remove the front door trim panel from one of the side doors by removing the three screws that secure it to the Jeep, using a screwdriver. With a firm grip, pull the trim panel from its place in an upward and outward direction. You will hear the seven plastic retention clips release as you remove the panel.

2

Remove the mirror flag clip, belt seal, knob and latch lock link located on the rear of the panel from the front door trim panel by pulling the connections apart. Take note of which connection you pull apart, it will be helpful during reassembly.

3

Disconnect the wire harness connectors and the interior door handle actuator rod from the front door trim panel by again pulling the connections apart.

4

Release the three nuts that attach the mirror to the door with a socket and ratchet. Hold on to the mirror as you do this to prevent damage either to the mirror or the paint and/or bodywork of your Jeeps side door.

5

Disconnect the battery negative cable by pulling the connectors apart; this cable powers the motor for the power mirror assembly.

6

Pull mirror apart from door carefully.

7

Repeat on the other side door for the second mirror.

Like many GM vehicles, the 1994 GMC Sonoma requires the removal of the interior door panel to replace the side view mirror. This task might intimidate many people but its not overly complicated. As a matter of fact, the first time a would-be home mechanic tries this and realizes how uncomplicated it is, he may desire to step up to bigger challenges. Replacing the side view mirrors on the Sonoma is less complicated than learning how to use them to back the truck up.

Instructions

1

Roll the window down all the way on the door with the mirror that needs replacing. If the Sonoma has power windows, turn the ignition to the "Off" position and remove the key from the ignition once the window is down.

2

Align the window crank removal tool (manual windows only) behind the length of the window crank. Pry the tool in between the crank and the door panel to unseat the retaining clip. The clip snaps over the internal section of the crank and will pop off with a slight spring force. Be careful not to let it fly off and get lost. Pull the window crank off its shaft once the spring is off.

3

Remove the two screws in the door pull cup with the Phillips screwdriver.

4

Pry the outside edge of the door panel (between the panel and the door frame) away from the frame with the trim panel pry tool. Work the pry tool to the bottom of the door panel and then to the other side to unseat all the plastic internal fasteners.

5

Push the door panel upward slightly to unseat the lip of the panel secured to the ridge of the door/window frame.

6

Disconnect the wire harness located on the inside of the door panel and then remove the door panel.

7

Disconnect the wire harness for the side view mirror (power mirrors only).

8

Remove the three retaining nuts attached the the side mirror studs with a ratchet and socket. Brace the mirror with one hand when removing the last nut, so the mirror does not fall and scratch the paint on the door.

9

Feed the wire harness (power mirrors only) through the access hole in the door frame to remove the mirror and harness from the Sonoma. For manual mirrors, simply remove the mirror.

10

Install the replacement mirror (manual or power) by reversing the removal procedure and then reinstall the door panel by reversing the removal procedure.

Conversion vans are ideal for towing because of their large engine size and strong suspension system. You can install a tow package on a conversion van yourself or take it to a shop or moving company such as UHaul to install the hitch for you. Make sure you check the conversion vans owners manual for the towing capacity and overall load weight that the engine can handle. Take into consideration the weight of the unloaded trailer and how many people will be riding in the van when calculating weight load.

Instructions

1

Look over the installation instruction sheet provided with your hitch. Check your vans owners manual to ensure you have the right size hitch for your engine size. Park your van on level ground. Engage the emergency brake. Put blocks in front of the front tires. Hoist the vehicle off the ground using a jack or ramps.

2

Locate the part of the frame at the rear of the van that the draw bar will attach to. Make sure you find the exact center of the frame so the hitch will not be pulling in an unbalanced manner.

3

Hold draw bar up to the frame at the desired location. Use the C-clamps to clamp the draw bar in place against the frame. You can use a scissor jack to support the weight of the draw bar if you dont have access to C-clamps.

4

Drill any holes in the frame if the draw bar has holes that dont line up with those already in the frame of the van. Use the electric drill to make the holes. Insert any reinforcement plates provided with the hitch between the draw bar and frame. Place bolts through all the holes in the draw bar and fasten with nuts. Hardware should be provided with hitch.

5

Tighten the nuts with a wrench to the recommended torque levels suggested in the hitch instructions.

6

Insert ball into the hitch located at the end of the draw bar. Insert cotter pin into the hitch to secure the ball to the hitch.

Unlike many repair tasks, removing the steering wheel on a 1993 Chevrolet Blazer cannot be accomplished with only a screwdriver or a socket wrench. The procedure requires a special pulling tool that can be ordered online or purchased at your local auto parts store. There are several reasons why you might wish to remove your steering wheel. If you are customizing the interior of your Blazer, you may want to replace the factory steering wheel with an aftermarket part. Likewise, if you are replacing dashboard components, the steering wheel might be an obstacle and may need to be removed.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of your Chevy Blazer and disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal. Let a few minutes pass before proceeding to ensure that residual power in the vehicles electrical system has dissipated. Doing this will disable the Blazers airbags so they wont be accidentally deploy while you are working on the steering wheel.

2

Pry the horn pad off the steering wheel using a screwdriver wrapped in tape to prevent accidental damage to the pad or the steering wheel. Do this slowly and carefully, as wiring is attached to the pad.

3

Disconnect the wiring from the back of the horn pad. Remove the pad completely from the steering wheel. This will expose a small space at the center of the wheel.

4

Remove the retaining nut at the center of the steering wheel using a socket wrench with an extension.

5

Inspect the bolt and steering wheel for any alignment marks made during a previous removal of the steering wheel. If there are no marks, draw a line connecting the bolt and the steering wheel. You will need these marks if you intend to reinstall the same steering wheel.

6

Fit the steering wheel puller tool over the center of the steering wheel. Fasten the tools bolts to matching screw openings in the center of the steering wheel.

7

Turn the steering wheel puller handle repeatedly until the Blazers steering wheel detaches from the shaft.

A vehicles ignition switch is inside its steering column and is the mechanical device that sends a signal from the key to the engine to turn over. A key operates the ignition switch. In many late-model vehicles the ignition switch is programmed to work with specific car keys by using a pre-programmed key code. Acquiring new keys for your vehicle requires knowing your key code so the company cutting your keys can cut them to fit your ignition.

Instructions

1

Find the vehicle identification number on your vehicle. Typically, VINs are on the paperwork you signed and received when you purchased your vehicle, on your insurance card, title and registration and on the inside panel of the drivers door.

2

Call your vehicles service department or dealership to order a new key. Provide the dealership the VIN for your car. Your VIN contains a specialized key code that works only for your vehicle. This code will allow your dealership to correctly cut and shave your key to the correct size.

3

Pick up and pay for your new key. Use the owners manual that came with your vehicle to correctly program your new key to work with the vehicles ignition switch and computerized key code.

Installing the keypad to your Ford keyless entry system allows you to control the door locks and trunk from a distance by pressing a button. This is helpful in bad weather or if you forget to lock the door. The keyless entry remote also has a panic button that sounds an alarm when pressed. The panic button is helpful if you get hurt or attacked in a parking lot and need help.

Instructions

1

Put the key into the ignition and turn it from the "Off" position to the "On" position eight times within 10 seconds. Make sure to end with the key turned to the "On" position. Remember, you have more than a full second to complete each turn, so dont panic and make sure to count the number of times you turn the key. When you have done this correctly, the doors lock and unlock to signify the car has entered the programming mode.

2

Press any button on the remote while the car is in the programming mode. The car stays in programming mode for 20 seconds. The car catches the signal and programs the remote to the system.

The car does not stay in programming mode long, so other people cannot program a remote to your car. Repeat this step within 20 seconds of programming the previous remote to program additional remotes. The doors lock and unlock after each remote has been programmed.

3

Turn the key from the "On" position to the "Off" position. This has the car exit the programming mode. The doors lock and unlock to confirm that it has exited programming mode and no other remotes will be able to be programmed to your car without repeating the entire process.

According to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), Ford Rangers with model years of 1998, 1999 and 2004 have been recalled for fuel problems. If not repaired, manufacturing defects in affected Ranger pickups may cause gas leaks and fires.

Purolator Filter Defect

UFI Filters USA conducted a recall of certain 1998-1999 Ford Rangers equipped with aftermarket fuel filters sold under the brand name Purolator F65277. A manufacturing defect in these filters could cause a fuel spill, which could lead to a fire.

Fuel Line Damage

Ford recalled certain 1998 model year Ford Rangers equipped with 4.0L engines for a manufacturing problem that could cause the fuel line to come in contact with the exhaust manifold. The fuel line in these vehicles may suffer extensive damage, leading to a fuel leak or fire.

Frame Rail Puncture

Ford recalled certain 2004 model year Rangers to repair improperly formed frame rails that could puncture the fuel line. In the event of a side-impact crash, a fuel leak or fire could develop.

Catalytic converters were first used to scrub pollutants from automobile exhaust systems in the United States in 1975. Today converters are required equipment on most passenger cars and light trucks sold in the U.S., where they have helped reduce vehicle emission pollution by more than 90 percent, according to CatalyticConverter.org. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) enforces emission performance specifications and other requirements for new and reconditioned converters.

Warranties

For new light-duty cars and trucks, converter manufacturers must provide a performance warranty covering repair of converters that fail emission control system tests in two years or 24,000 miles. Repair of major emission system parts is covered for eight years or 80,000 miles. A separate design and defect warranty covers emission control system parts that malfunction during the first two years or 24,000 miles, and major emission system parts in the first eight years or 80,000 miles.

Illegal Tampering

Any modification that reduces the effectiveness of a vehicle emission control system is illegal. Removing catalytic converters, selling or installing less effective replacement converters, or manufacturing converters that do not comply with federal performance specifications are subject to $25,000 penalties per occurrence. Vehicle owners, repair technicians and repair facilities can all be held responsible for violations.

New Replacement Converters

New aftermarket converters can be installed on a wide variety of different vehicles. They must carry a 25,000-mile warranty to meet federal emission performance standards, and a five year or 50,000-mile warranty on the converter end pipes and shell.

Used Replacement Converters

Used, or reconditioned, converters can only be installed on the type of vehicle for which they were originally manufactured. They must meet minimum EPA performance standards at the time of the sale but are not required to carry a warranty.

The thermostat in the 2006 Chevy Malibu regulates the engine temperature by allowing or restricting the flow of fluid that goes through the coolant veins inside the engine block and engine heads. At 180 degrees F, the thermostat opens and forces more fluid though the engine. This lowers the temperature in the engine to prevent overheating. At some point, the thermostat will fail. When this happens, the engine could overheat and cause thousands of dollars in damages.

Instructions

1

Remove the two bolts that secure the T-Stat housing to the right engine head. To locate the housing, follow the upper radiator hose to the engine head. The hose connects to the T-Stat housing.

2

Lift the T-Stat housing upward and remove the thermostat from the engine head.

3

Clean the old gasket off the engine head. Use a small scraper or wire brush if necessary.

4

Place the spring end of the thermostat into the engine head and then place the thermostat gasket over the thermostat.

5

Place the thermostat housing onto the gasket and bolt it into place.

The Ford Mustang Cobra is a powerful sports car and requires a lot of voltage to operate the engine accessories. The Cobras electrical components are powered by the alternator and once the alternator fails, it needs to be replaced. Installing a new alternator needs to be done in the proper procedure to ensure it operates correctly. The old alternator must be removed first so the new alternator can be installed.

Disconnect the Battery

The battery stores power and is charged by the alternator of the Mustang Cobra. Both the negative ("-") and positive ("+") battery terminals need to be removed from the battery, in that order, so power or voltage is not being sent to the alternator. This needs to be done to ensure the alternator does not shock the mechanic working on the component.

Remove Alternator Power Terminals

The alternator on the Mustang Cobra has power cables or terminals that need to be removed before loosening the attachment bolts. The terminal connections are locked into place with a clip that needs to be pulled up. Once the clip is pulled up, the terminal connection can be pulled apart, disconnecting the alternator power terminal. A nut holds another terminal onto the back of the alternator. The bolt can be removed with a ratchet and socket or a box-end wrench.

Remove Attachment Bolts

The alternator on the Mustang Cobra is held in place by two attachment bolts. Both bolts need to be loosened in order to remove the timing or serpentine belt. The bolt on the bottom of the alternator is the pivot bolt. Once the bolts are loosened, the alternator can be turned slightly on the pivot bolt so the serpentine belt can be removed. The bolts can then be removed from the alternator and the alternator can be removed from the mounting brackets.

Install the New Alternator

The new alternator can be placed back onto the mounting brackets of the Mustang Cobra engine. The attachment bolts can then be installed and tightened down holding the alternator in place. Leave the attachment bolts slightly loose so the alternator can pivot. The serpentine belt can be placed back onto the alternator pulley.

Tighten Serpentine Belt

Since the alternator is still loose, tension on the serpentine belt can be performed. A small crow-bar or pry-bar can be slid between the alternator and the mounting brackets. Pressure can then be placed on the alternator rotating on the pivot bolt and tightening the serpentine belt. Pressure needs to be maintained on the serpentine belt as the attachment bolts are tightened into place. This keeps the tension on the serpentine belt.

Replace Power

The alternator power terminals and battery cables need to be replaced on the Mustang Cobra. Slid the back terminal onto the screw terminal and tighten the nut onto the end. The power terminal connection can be slid back into place, ensuring the locking clip snaps back into place. The positive and negative battery cables need to be put back on the battery terminals and tightened down. Make sure the black cable goes onto the negative side of the battery and the red cable goes onto the positive side of the battery.

Cracked exhaust welds arent unusual; frequent drastic changes in temperature--such as when you start and drive your car after it has sat, off, overnight in the driveway in the winter--cause poorly made exhaust welds to crack. Cracked exhaust welds allow poisonous exhaust gases to enter the passenger area of your vehicle rather than exit through the tailpipe as they should. Repairing the welds without a welding machine requires a strong material capable of expanding and contracting. Using materials not recommended for high-heat applications will cause the material to break free of the weld, and the leaking exhaust gases will continue to enter your vehicle.

Instructions

1

Run a stainless steel wire brush across the damaged exhaust weld. Continue brushing the exhaust until you remove all rust, dirt and grease from the damaged area.

2

Wipe the weld with a wet rag.

3

Apply exhaust repair putty to the cracked weld with a putty knife. Ensure that you cover an area that exceeds all sides of the damaged weld at least 1/2 inch. Push the weld firmly against the surface of the exhaust pipe to bond the putty to the metal.

4

Smooth out the repair putty by wiping across the putty with the wet rag.

5

Start the vehicle. Allow the vehicle to run at idle for 10 to 15 minutes.

6

Allow the exhaust repair putty to dry overnight before using the vehicle.

You can turn off the check engine light yourself manually on your Mazda. When the light illuminates on the instrument panel, it is telling you that there is a problem with the valves, solenoids or sensors on the Mazda. In any case, its a problem that needs to be looked at immediately by a qualified mechanic. Turning off the light is a very quick and fairly simple process that requires just a couple of basic tools.

Instructions

1

Lift the hood of your vehicle and prop it open. Remove the negative cable from the battery terminal by loosening the nut on the cable with a 10-mm end wrench. (If you have a Miata, the battery is in the trunk.)

2

Wait for five minutes, taking care not to allow the negative battery clamp to touch the positive clamp or the positive side of the battery.

3

Reattach the negative cable to the battery and tighten the nut using the end wrench.

4

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to "On." Look at the instrument panel to make sure the check engine light has turned off.

The Ford E-Series, or Econoline, is a line of full-size cargo and passenger vans. The number indicates the carrying capacity, with the 250 designator indicating a 3/4 ton carrying capacity. The 1991 Ford Econoline 250 was available with several eight-cylinder engines, all with fuel injection. This vehicle uses a high-pressure fuel pump that is part of the fuel sender assembly located in the fuel tank. You must remove the fuel tank to service the fuel pump in a 1991 Ford Econoline 250.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the electrical connection for the fuel pump relay and start the engine. Run the engine until it stalls. Crank the engine for five seconds to ensure the fuel system is empty. Connect the electrical connection for the fuel pump relay.

2

Disconnect the cable on the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Use a floor jack to raise the van onto jack stands. Siphon the fuel out of the fuel tank through the filler cap opening. Detach the electrical connections for the fuel sending unit and fuel pump. Disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel tank. Place a piece of wood on a floor jack and move the floor jack under the fuel tank. Raise the floor jack to support the fuel tank. Loosen the retainers for the filler tube and the fuel tank straps. Lower the floor jack and remove the tank from the vehicle.

3

Clean the surface of the fuel tank around the fuel sender assembly with a shop rag. Turn the locking ring on the fuel sender assembly counterclockwise with a hammer and brass drift punch. Remove the locking ring and remove the fuel sender assembly from the fuel tank. Discard the gasket for the fuel sender assembly.

4

Clean the mounting flange on the fuel tank and apply a thin layer of grease with Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B. Place the new gasket into the groove on the fuel tank. Install the fuel sending unit into the fuel tank, and align the tabs on the fuel sending unit with the slots in the fuel tank.

5

Tighten the locking ring for the fuel sending unit clockwise until it stops. Install the fuel tank. Connect the electrical connectors and fuel lines for the fuel sending unit. Lower the vehicle. Fill the fuel tank with fuel. Connect the cable for the negative battery terminal.

If the ABS light on your dashboard is on continuously, it may mean you need to replace a wheel hub assembly. If you are not sure which one it might be, have the car inspected by a professional. Replacing a wheel hub assembly requires some special tools, but if you have them, then this project is well on its way to being completed. If you dont have them, they can usually be rented at a tool rental establishment. Remember to chock the wheels to prevent injury and always set the emergency brake.

Instructions

1

Park the car on level ground and place a block under the front wheel if doing the back or the back wheel if doing the front. Jack the car up accordingly and place jack stands underneath the car and let the jack down so the car rests on the jack stands.

2

Remove the lug nuts and the wheel. Locate and remove the brake caliper bolts with a socket and ratchet. Support the caliper with a bungee cord. Remove the brake pads if needed, but remember where they are so you can replace them in the same order.

3

Take the rotor off. If it sticks, tap it with a rubber mallet to loosen it up. Locate the ABS wire connected to the hub and trace it back to the plug, if applicable.

4

Break the spindle nut loose with the breaking bar and the spindle nut socket. Remove it along with the washer behind it.

5

Locate the wheel bearing assembly bolts. Remove them with the breaking bar and socket.

6

Install the slide hammer onto the lug studs and secure it with the lug nuts. Pay close attention to the bearing to prevent injury while using the slide hammer. In addition, remember how the backing plate is installed between the knuckle and the bearing to replace it in the same manner.

7

Sand the rust and corrosion off of the knuckle with medium to fine grade sandpaper. Clean it as good as you can so the new bearing fits snugly.

8

Place the new backing plate back where it belongs followed by the new bearing, aligning the splines as you go into the center of the hub. Thread the wheel bearing assembly bolts and tighten them down alternating between bolts to keep the bearings straight as they slide back into place. Tighten them as tight as you can with the breaking bar and the socket.

9

Install the new the washer and spindle nut and torque them properly followed by the brakes and the ABS plug. Next, put the wheel back on and tighten the lug nuts down.

The headlight switch on a 1991 Camaro RS is located on the plastic housing surrounding the instrument cluster. This switch controls the headlights, parking lights and the dimming of the instrument panel lighting. If this switch fails, you will not be able to operate any of these lights. You can replace the switch with just a few basic tools.

Instructions

1

Remove the fog light switch from the dash housing. Use a small screwdriver and pry lightly at the edges of the switch housing. Be careful not to scratch the plastic housing that surrounds the switch. Once the switch is free, unplug it and set it aside.

2

Access the release knob located on the bottom of the headlight switch by reaching through the fog light switch opening.

3

Press the release button and pull the headlight switch knob and shaft toward you. It should release, allowing you to remove it.

4

Remove the retaining nut that holds the switch in place using a pair of long needle nose pliers.

5

Remove the cosmetic housing by pulling carefully toward you. Plastic tabs on the rear of the housing keep it in place and should release with light pressure.

6

Pull the headlight switch out to access the plug. Using a small screwdriver, press the release tab on the connector and unplug the switch.

7

Remove the old switch and plug in the new switch. Push the new switch back into place.

8

Replace the cosmetic housing. Attach the retaining nut to the headlight switch before pushing the housing into final position. Tighten the retaining nut with the long needle nose pliers. This will secure the headlight switch to the housing.

9

Insert the headlight knob and shaft into the new headlight switch. There is no need to press the release button because the switch is spring loaded. Replace the fog light switch to complete reassembly.

The Lexus S430 is actually classified as an SC430. The "C" stands for "coupe," which is the only way the S430 model is available. The 430 is related to the 4.3-liter V-8 engine. First manufactured in 2001, the SC430 features four oxygen sensors. Two located up front on the converters bolted to the manifolds (one per engine side), and two more located near the two rear catalytic converters. Although the procedure to replace any of them is the same, the sensors are different forward and aft, and defining which sensor has failed will require a code reader/scan tool and knowing where your number one cylinder is located.

Instructions

1

Determine which oxygen sensor needs to be replaced. Plug a code reader or scan tool into the diagnostic link connector located beneath the drivers side dashboard. Turn the Lexus SC430 ignition to the "accessories" position. Follow the directions of the code reader or scan tool to discover which sensor has failed. Bank one-sensor one is the forward-most (towards the engine) sensor located on the same side as the number one cylinder. Bank one-sensor two is downstream on the same side, near the rear catalytic converter. Respectively, the two sensors for bank two are positioned in the same way on the opposite side of the engine and exhaust.

2

Lift the SC430 if youre replacing one of the number two sensors. The number one sensors may be easier to access from the engine compartment on either side of the engine by the manifold.

3

Follow the wire harness of the sensor youre going to replace until you find the plug. It will be eight or nine inches away from the sensor. Disconnect the plug of the sensor from the plug of the wire harness.

4

Use the oxygen sensor socket and a flex-head ratchet to remove the sensor from the exhaust porthole. A 22 mm wrench can also be used, but the amount of room available may restrict its effectiveness. Turn the sensor counterclockwise from the exhaust porthole to remove. Remove the sensor.

5

Thread the new direct-fit sensor into the exhaust porthole by hand to assure youre not cross-threading it. Snugly tighten the sensor with the socket and ratchet (or the 22 mm wrench). Do not over-tighten the sensor because the threads on the sensor can easily strip.

6

Plug the sensor wire plug back into the wire harness plug.

7

Rescan the PCM using the code reader or scan tool. Follow the directions to erase the code to clear the check engine light.

The appearance of the "Check Engine" light on your 1992 Toyota indicates there is a problem with your vehicles engine, exhaust or fuel systems. The vehicle needs to be inspected by a qualified mechanic before you reset the engine light yourself. After any needed repairs have been completed, resetting the Toyotas On-Board Diagnostics computer will turn off the check engine light. All you need is an OBD scanning tool that reads the trouble codes and erases them from the OBD computer.

Instructions

1

Locate and open the fuse panel cover which is located under the steering column. Use your fingers to open it by pulling down on it from the top.

2

Look for an open port inside the fuse panel that is the same shape and size as the connector end on the OBD scanning tool. Once you have located this, plug the OBD scanning-tool connector into the port.

3

Put the key into the ignition and turn it on, but do not start the engine. This will power on the OBD scanning tool; you dont need to turn the tool on manually.

4

Wait for the display on the OBD scanning tool to read "OK." Press "Clear" on the OBD scanning tool to turn off the check engine light.

5

Unplug the scanning tool from the port and put the fuse panel cover back in place. Turn the vehicle off, wait a minute, then start the engine. Look at the instrument cluster to make sure the check engine light has turned off for good.

The first performance modification that many people make to their Yamaha V Star 650 is to change out the exhaust system for a better sound and more horsepower. As an added bonus, this isnt a difficult modification to do and can be done by almost anyone at home in their garage with just a few tools. But before the new exhaust goes on, the old muffler has to come off.

Instructions

1

Park the motorcycle on a level surface with plenty of room to work. You want to make sure that your bike wont roll anywhere needlessly and damage anything.

2

Unbolt the frame cover that goes around the exhaust using a 3/8-inch ratchet and socket. Place it to the side so that it doesnt get damaged.

3

Unbolt the clamp that connects the inlet of the lower muffler on the exhaust to the muffler using an open-end wrench.

4

Unbolt the clamp that secures the mufflers to the muffler bracket using a 3/8-inch ratchet and socket and an open-end wrench. You can find the clamp between the two mufflers on the exhaust.

5

Slide the mufflers off of the exhaust, making sure to work them around the frame so you dont damage anything.

The Subaru Baja is an all-terrain vehicle that allows people to get to remote camping sites and other rugged environments. If you are having problems with your Subaru Baja, there are a few things you can do before taking it to a Subaru repair shop. Common problems occur with the battery, fuel or the starter. You dont have to be a Subaru technician to get your Baja back on the road.

Instructions

1

Insert the key into the Bajas ignition. Turn the key halfway to engage the instrument panel. Wait for the instrument panel to light up. If the instrument panel does not light up, you have a problem with your battery. If the instrument panel does light up, check the gas gauge. Fill the gas tank if needed and then try to restart your car.

2

Pull on the hood-release latch to the left of your feet in the drivers side of the car. Get out of the Baja and open the hood. Look for the battery to the right of the engine block.

3

Use a pair of channel locks or insulated pliers to tighten the connections of the terminals to the battery prongs. Try to turn the key over to engage the instrument panel. If the instrument panel will not engage, jump-start the Baja.

4

Connect the red and black leads from your jumper cables to the red and black terminals on the battery. Connect the other end of the jumper cables to the red and black terminals on a friends car. Start your friends car and then start your Baja. Allow the Baja to run for 10 to 15 minutes before you turn off the car. Try to restart the car. If the car will not restart, replace the battery with a new one.

5

Jack the front of the Baja up and crawl under the car. Locate the starter. This is a small black box next to the engine. Have your friend turn the ignition and listen to the starter. If you hear a "clicking" or a "buzzing" noise coming from the starter, you will need to have a service technician replace the starter.

Explore challenges with your Accord exhaust system by pinpointing the problem. Inspect key components from the engine to the tailpipe because exhaust system troubles could come from various places. Troubleshoot the exhaust system in a Honda Accord by acting on warning signs from system devices. Team up with a mechanic to apply these steps for most model years.

Instructions

1

Inspect the exhaust manifold and cylinder head because leaks usually occur where these devices connect. Thermal expansion and contraction cause this problem. Shear stress afflicts the exhaust manifold gasket every time you start your Accord, drive it or turn it off. With time leaks can develop.

2

See if you hear an intermittent hissing or popping sound while the engine is going. Furthermore, look for paint discolorations or burns near the exhaust ports on the cylinder head. Make certain to check your spark plug wires and boots for burns.

3

Examine the joining area between the exhaust manifold and head pipe. The back-and-forth motion of your engine caused by drive torque leads to movement at the joint where the head pipe meets the exhaust manifold. Hot gases that escaped this area could cause discoloration. This relates to the 2.4L and V6 engines.

4

Check exhaust pipes for damage. Use the large pliers to put pressure on the pipes. Replace any pipe that breaks, tears or gives under pressure. Run the engine when testing your system because leaks and other problems are more obvious with the engine going.

5

Listen for strange sounds coming from exhaust areas including your muffler. A buzzing noise that increases with acceleration could reflect exhaust system problems. A whistle sound or high-pitched hissing noise in the tailpipe could result from system restrictions. Get a mechanic to read your engine intake manifold vacuum. Low readings generally mean exhaust blockage.

A condenser is the first component in a motor vehicles air conditioning (AC) system. The condenser removes the heat and liquefies the gas before it passes into the evaporator core. Dirt, debris or other foreign matter can restrict airflow through the condenser, causing a reduction in performance. Clear any debris from the condensers exterior with a water hose on an annual basis. The condenser may develop a leak due to rust and corrosion or because of a blow from a sharp stone or other object. Flying objects can also cause dents in the condensers pressure lines.

Instructions

1

Protect your vehicle by using a fender cover of some sort.

2

Use the proper refrigerant recovery equipment to purge the refrigerant from the vehicles air conditioning system.

3

Remove the coolant radiator from the engine compartment. In some vehicles, you must also remove the grill assembly.

4

Disconnect the condensers high-pressure line. It is usually located at the top of the condenser. It will be smaller in diameter than the low-pressure line.

5

Discard the O-rings. You will receive replacement rings with your new condenser.

6

Disconnect the low-pressure line at the bottom of the condenser. It is larger in diameter than the high-pressure line.

7

Discard these O-rings as well.

8

Retain all bolts, nuts or both that are holding the condenser in place. Your new condenser will not have replacements.

9

Remove the faulty condenser from the engine compartment.

10

Place the new condenser in the place of the faulty one. Be careful. Avoid damaging the condenser or its lines.

11

Replace the bolts, nuts or both.

12

Put in the new O-rings at the lines. Make sure they are seated properly.

13

Use a vacuum pump to remove all the excess air from the system. You connect the vacuum pump to both lines, along with your air conditioning gauges. After connecting to your lines, plug into 110 electricity and open the valves. Continue vacuuming until the gauge on the low side reads "0."

14

Re-attach the lines beginning with the bottom line first. Be careful. Avoid kinking the lines as this will cause problems with the condenser.

15

Conduct a leak test of the system if you have a leak detector or can borrow or rent one. This can save you a lot of headaches down the road. If a leak is present, you can discover it before recharging your system. However, if you miss it now, youll lose coolant and have to track down the leak manually later.

16

Recharge the air conditioning system with refrigerant according to manufacturers specifications.

The purpose of the grille on your 2002 Suzuki XL7 is not just for aesthetics. It is also to keep debris away from the radiator. You may wish to remove the grille to replace it with a custom grille to improve the look of your vehicle, or you may have to remove it because of damage from an accident. In either case, it should take you less than an hour to do and only requires a few tools that you can get from any hardware store.

Instructions

1

Examine the grille from the front and find the three screws on the bottom of the front of the grille. Remove these screws with a 3/8-inch ratchet and socket.

2

Raise the hood and remove all four screws along the top of the grille. Grab the top of the grille and bring it toward you to reach behind the grill. Pry off the washers on the backside of the grille with a flat-head screwdriver.

3

Find the two plastic posts on the inside part of the grille. Twist them off with pliers and pull the grille off the front of the vehicle.

As a theft deterrent system, Mitsubishi programs its car radios with a 4-digit code that locks the audio system when tampered with. Trouble is that sometimes the system locks up even on legitimate owners, leaving them without the ability to play compact discs or use the radio.



If you see a prompt that reads "Code," dont sweat it, the user manual should contain a reset code. If no manual is available, Mitsubishi hosts a website which will send you the code as long as you have your vehicles VIN and the radios model and serial numbers.

Instructions

Locate and reset the lock code

1

Locate 2001 your original Galant owners manual. Note that it must be the one that came with your vehicle; replacement manuals will not have the appropriate code.

2

Insert key into ignition and set to "ON" or "RUN" position. Turn on radio.

3

Enter 4-digit code that appears in owners manual by depressing preset buttons on the radio deck.

Properly working windshield wipers are essential for safe driving. Wiper blades become worn over time, causing streaking, noises and vibrations. All of these problems can limit your visibility, making you less safe on the road.

Noise

Noise from your wiper blades can indicate a tear in the blades rubber. When blade rubber tears it is past time to replace your blades. Noise can also be produced if the motor arm is twisted.

Vibration

Wiper blades that vibrate across the windshield have either been improperly mounted or the rubber on the blade is too worn. If the rubber looks good, you may need to remount the entire blade to guarantee it is installed properly.

No Wiper Fluid

If you cannot get your windshield washer to work, first check to be sure you have plenty of fluid in the wiper fluid reservoir. The wiper fluid may also not function properly if a fuse is blown. Your car owners manual will tell you where to find the fuse box and which fuse to replace. Also check to be certain the sprayers which direct fluid to the windshield are not clogged with debris or dirt.

The Triumph Motor Company is an English car manufacturer that was founded in 1885 and became defunct in 1984. One of the companys most popular models was the Triumph Spitfire. Because the Spitfire has been out of production since 1980 many enthusiasts are forced to complete their own repairs to keep their Spitfires running. If you are the owner of a Triumph Spitfire, there are several tech tips you should know about.

Overheating

One common problem with Triumph Spitfires is overheating. If your Spitfire is overheating the first thing you should do is check your coolant and oil levels. If your Spitfire is still overheating, try removing your front license plate. Surprising as that may sound, for many Spitfire owners this has worked. If you live in a state though that requires you to have a front license plate you can also replace your thermostat, flush the radiator and replace the radiator cap.

Anti-Sway Bar Repair

Many Spitfires, due to their age, have anti-sway bars that have eroded or become weak. You can choose to purchase new anti-sway bars, but it is much cheaper to use a different approach. To repair your sway bars you can weld steel plates to the front of the A-arms and then attach the sway bar to the steel plates on the A-arms.

Fuel Gauge Calibration

Occasionally you may need to re-calibrate your fuel gauges to get accurate fuel readings for your Triumph Spitfire. When re-calibrating though, there are a few tips you should know about. The first is that the sender unit in the fuel tank can only fit in one specific position, which is flush against the tank seal. Another tip is to make sure that the ignition key is off prior to reconnecting the wires to the sending unit. If the sending unit creates a spark you may cause a fire.

Correct ignition timing specifications are crucial for engine performance. Timing affects many variables, including fuel economy and engine longevity. Prizm is a compact car manufactured in United States by Chevrolet since1989. Its engineers have determined precise timing specifications so that you can benefit from your Prizm as much as possible.

Measuring Ignition Timing

Use a timing light to check your timing while the engine is running. An inductive trigger signal will be picked up from one of the spark plug cables, causing the light to turn on and freeze while the spark plug fires. This helps to determine the crankshaft position. Use this information for making timing adjustments, because the rate at which the crankshaft is spinning and is processed by the distributor controls the ignition (that is, controls when the spark should occur).

Timing Specifications

Ideally, the time at which the mixture should be fully burned on a Geo Prizm is approximately 10 degrees before top dead center (BTDC) at idle.

Notes

These adjustment specifications are both for automatic and manual transmission versions.

While some vehicles use single headlights to account for both low and high beams, the 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee employs separate bulbs for each per headlight assembly. As a matter of fact, each drivers and passenger side headlight assembly house a total of five bulbs inside. One low beam headlight, one high beam headlight, two parking lights and a combination marker/directional light. To access and replace any of these lights requires you to remove the headlight assembly.

Instructions

1

Open the hood to the 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee and locate the jack screw at the top rear center of the headlight assembly that contains the headlight being replaced.

2

Remove the jack screw with the ratchet and a 7mm socket. Extract the long jack screw out of its chamber in the back of the headlight assembly and set it aside.

3

Grab the headlight assembly on the upper inner corner and the lower outer corner and wiggle the assembly free to unseat the headlight alignment guide pins. This will require some force to unseat the alignment pins.

4

Reach behind the assembly (attached to the wire harness connections of each headlight and bulb to access the spent headlight. Low beam headlights are located on the outer end of the assembly and the high beam on the inner end of the assembly.

5

Disconnect the blue clip of the wire harness from the base of the headlight.

6

Twist the headlight base a quarter turn counterclockwise to remove the composite headlight from the assembly.

7

Insert the new low or high beam headlight being careful not to touch the glass bulb into the back of the headlight assembly and align the tabs of the composite headlight to the grooves in the assembly. Press the headlight inward and then twist the base clockwise until it locks into place.

8

Reconnect the blue plug of the wire harness to the base of the headlight.

9

Rest the headlight assembly in its cavity and test the headlight for operation.

10

Align the headlight alignment guide pins with the seats in the headlight assembly cavity and push the assembly into place.

11

Replace the jack screw and tighten it with the ratchet and socket.

Encountering a dead battery in an area without another vehicle to jump start yours can leave you stranded for an extended length of time. Keeping a battery booster in your vehicle ensures you will have enough power to jump start your vehicle when stranded. A battery booster stores enough energy to start your vehicle in an emergency. Using the battery booster correctly will allow you to start your vehicle safely.

Instructions

1

Pull the hood release lever located inside your vehicle. Open the hood and prop it open (if required).

2

Connect the red cable of the battery booster to the positive terminal post of the dead battery. Connect the black cable of the battery booster to the ground terminal post of the battery.

3

Turn on the battery booster.

4

Move the selection switch of the battery booster to "Start." The switch labeling may vary depending on the battery booster manufacturer.

5

Start the vehicle.

6

Turn off the battery booster. Disconnect the black cable from the battery and then disconnect the red cable. Close the vehicle hood.

7

Plug the battery booster into a grounded outlet. Set the booster to charge. Allow the booster to charge until the charging indicator reads "Full."

If you choose to perform repair work on a GM vehicle, make sure you know how to find the right parts. Although many parts have a case number printed on them, this is not the same as the part number.

Instructions

1

Obtain the vehicle identification number, or the VIN, on your GM vehicle. It is typically located under the windshield on the drivers side dashboard.

2

Contact your local GM dealership with the VIN number. The VIN number indicates the year, make, and model of your GM vehicle, as well as where it was made. It can also tell you the transmission type and the engine code. Using the VIN number, the dealer will be able to help you find the right part numbers for your particular vehicle.

3

Type your VIN into an online decoding service. If your local dealership is unable to help, online decoders can be used to break apart your VIN number and find the corresponding parts number. Double check when entering the VIN -- including every number in is important.

Wheels are secured to a vehicle with a stud bolt and a lug nut. Over time, the stud bolts can become damaged and need replacement. Stud bolts are pressed into the wheel hub and cannot be removed as normal bolts can. Most vehicles have four or five studs per wheel while some vehicles have more.

Instructions

Remove the Wheel Hub Assembly

1

Break loose the lug nuts with the lug wrench. Do not remove them at this time.

2

Raise the vehicle in the air with the floor jack and place the jack stand in a secure place.

3

Lower that car until it sits securely on the jack stand. Shake the car to ensure that it rests safely on the stand.

4

Remove the lug nuts. Take the wheel and the tire off of the vehicle.

5

Remove the brake caliper and caliper mounting bracket with the socket and ratchet. With mechanics wire, hang the caliper from the vehicle, being careful not to pull or stretch the rubber brake like.

6

Remove the brake rotor by pulling it away from its resting position on the wheel studs.

7

Loosen the bolts holding the wheel bearing/hub assembly to the vehicle. Unthread them about halfway. Drive out the wheel bearing by striking the wheel bearing bolts with a hammer. Make sure to work your way around the bolts to drive out the bearing as straight as possible.

Remove and Replace Wheel Studs

8

Secure the wheel hub assembly into the vice. Be careful not to damage the dust cap on the back.

9

Thread a lug nut over each of the studs to be removed. Drive each stud out of the wheel hub assembly. Remove the lug nut from the wheel stud and discard the wheel stud. Repeat this process for all of the wheel studs to be removed.

10

Place a new wheel stud into the wheel stud hole and thread a lug nut over the new stud.

11

Pull the new stud into position with the socket and ratchet to tighten the lug nut. Tighten only until the back of the new stud fits flat with the back of the hub. Remove the lug nut. Repeat steps 3 and 4 until all of the studs are properly secured.

12

Remove the wheel hub assembly from the vice.

Reinstall the Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly

13

Place the wheel hub into position; it will not fit in all the way. Thread the hub bolts into the wheel hub by hand until tight.

14

Gently draw the wheel hub back into position by tightening each hub bolt with the socket and ratchet set. Tighten one bolt two full turns and move to the next. Work your way around the hub assembly until it has been completely set into place. Torque down the hub assembly bolts and look to make sure the hub assembly sits flush with its holding component.

15

Slide the brake rotor over the new studs and replace the caliper bracket by reinstalling the caliper bracket bolts with the socket and ratchet.

16

Place the brake caliper back into position. Be sure to check that both brake pads sit in the proper position.

17

Reinstall the caliper mounting bolts with the socket and ratchet. Discard the mechanics wire. Smooth out any kinks or sharp bends in the rubber brake line.

The Ford Focus is a compact car that Ford has manufactured since 2000 for the United States. It has either a 2.0-liter or 2.3-liter engine with a double overhead camshaft. Some versions of the Focus use a timing chain to turn the camshafts with the crankshaft. The procedure for replacing the timing chain is generally the same, although some models of the Ford Focus also require you to remove the camshaft sprockets.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the front cover from the engine with a socket wrench. Compress the tension rod for the timing chain to align the hole in the tensioner housing with the hole in the tensioner rod. Place the end of a paperclip into the holes to keep the tensioner rod temporarily in place.

2

Remove the mounting bolts for the timing chain tensioner with a socket wrench and disconnect the tensioner from the crankcase. Disconnect the right guide for the timing chain, and detach the timing chain from the sprockets. Disconnect the left guide for the timing chain.

3

Attach a holding tool to the flats of the camshaft to hold it in place. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the camshaft sprockets with a socket wrench, and remove the sprockets from the camshafts. Remove the holding tool from the camshaft. Mount the camshaft sprockets to the camshaft, and fasten the mounting bolts by hand. Perform this step only if you need to remove the camshaft sprockets to install the new timing chain.

4

Mount the left guide for the timing chain, and tighten its mounting bolts to 89 inch-pounds with a torque wrench. Mount the timing chain to the crankshaft sprocket and camshaft sprockets. Connect the right guide for the timing chain, and tighten its mounting bolts to 89 inch-pounds.

5

Install the tensioner for the timing chain, and fasten its mounting bolts by hand. Pull the paper clip from the tensioner housing to apply tension to the timing chain. Tighten the mounting bolts for the tensioner to 89 inch-pounds with a torque wrench.

6

Attach the holding tool to the flats on the camshaft to hold the camshaft in place. Tighten the mounting bolts for the camshaft sprocket to 53 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Perform this step only if you removed the camshaft sprockets in step three.

7

Attach the front cover to the engine with a socket wrench.

Removing an exhaust manifold from a six-cylinder Ford 300 engine is not difficult. This engine actually has two exhaust manifolds, one on the left and one on the right. If the gasket goes bad between the manifold and the engine block, you need to replace it. Likewise, if the manifold starts to crack, you will need to replace it. Removing the exhaust manifold yourself can save you money on labor charges at an auto-repair garage.

Instructions

Left Manifold

1

Open the hood and prop it safely with the support. Remove the oil dipstick bracket using a wrench. Remove the air cleaner unit from the carburetor by turning the thumbscrew and pulling the entire assembly away from the engine. Remove the servo bracket assembly using a wrench. Label the proper location of each of the spark plug wires with a marker and masking tape. They must go back to the same location that you took them off.

2

Pull each wire from the plug by grasping the boot and pulling it away from the spark plug. Disconnect the oxygen sensor wire by pulling it off the fitting. Lift the vehicle on the front end with the automobile jack. Place a jack stand under the vehicle near the jacking point and raise it to the frame. Crawl under the vehicle and disconnect the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold using a wrench. Remove the jack stand from under the vehicle. Lower the vehicle to the ground.

3

Remove the bolts attaching the exhaust manifold to the engine block using a socket set. Pull the manifold and gasket away from the engine block.

Right Manifold

4

Remove the air cleaner from the engine. Do this if you are removing the left exhaust manifold as well. Disconnect the transmission dipstick tube from the engine using a wrench to release the nut. Remove the Thermactor hose and the air tube bracket using a wrench. Label the spark plug wires with a marker and masking tape. They have to go back on the way they came off. Unplug the ignition coil and plug wires by grasping the boots and pulling them away.

5

Remove the spark plugs using a socket, ratchet and extension. Remove the heat shield using a wrench to loosen the bolts. Lift the automobile using the automobile jack. Support the vehicle by placing a jack stand under the vehicle near the jacking point and raising it to the frame. Crawl under the vehicle and disconnect the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold. Remove the jack stand from under the vehicle. Lower the automobile to the ground.

6

Remove the exhaust manifold from the engine using a socket and ratchet to loosen the bolts. Remove the inner heat shroud and EGR tube as an assembly from the cylinder head using a wrench.

With the fast depleting resources in the world today among them sources of energy it is becoming quite important for people to save as much of it as possible. For the world to be effective in saving energy, the practice has to be started in the home and with the simple things. One of the ways through which one can save energy is by switching of any lights in the house when they are not needed.

Another way of saving energy at home is by fixing any leaks of water and air in home whenever possible. This will not only help one save useful energy but it will help them save money as well. This will however require the person to do some budgeting. Any appliances that are not in use should also be turned off as this will save much energy as well.

Another way of saving energy in the home is conducting an energy audit of the home. This is basically the process that involves dealing with each problem individually and any results that come up should be increased proportionally by how much work has been put in.  An audit will involve the person seeking to know the amount of energy that is coming into the house, where it is being used and the manner in which it is being used. The audit will also involve seeking ways to enhance the efficiency of the way energy is being used and should be done routinely as well. Energy audits can either be carried out manually by the owner of the house or professionally by a person who is specifically trained to do it. Once a particular audit is completed one can now create a list entailing things that should be done in the home to save energy. 

Among the things that should be done after an audit has been carried out is replacing incandescent bulbs. This can be done using compact fluorescent bulbs which although are quite expensive do not consume as much energy. Saving energy at home extends to the refrigerator as well and one of the ways of saving energy in the home is by always ensuring the door is tightly shut. Replacing an older refrigerator with a newer model can help save energy because older models are known to consume about three times more energy than the new ones. 

For households with ovens the flame should always be blue. All pots should also be covered as this will help to retain heat and hence the food will cook faster thereby saving energy in the end. Some people are known to overstay when they go into the shower and this is not advisable for a person who wants to save energy. When using a washing machine one should also ensure that they use only cold water and that they have only put in the clothes they need.

Owners of the Chrysler 2002 Town and Country may experience various problems with the power lift gate. The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration opened an investigation in 2004 due to multiple consumer complaints regarding power 2001-2003 model lift gates opening while the vehicles were in motion. A recall was issued in 2005, but only for 2003 models, leaving 2002 Town and Country owners responsible for the financial burden of lift gate repairs.

Failure to Open

Owners of the 2002 Town and Country have complained to the NHTSA that the lift gate sometimes wont open with the power button, remote control or manually. One consumer states that the problem has been present in the vehicle since the date it was purchased from the dealer. No recall has been issued to resolve this problem.

Difficulty Latching

Drivers of 2002 Chrysler Town and Country vehicles have reported to NHTSA various difficulties in getting the lift gates to latch when using the keypad. The latch may open part way and remain like that. RepairPal states that updating the module software may fix the keypad problem.

Opens Arbitrarily

Consumer complaints to NHTSA indicate that some lift gates on 2002 Chrysler Town and Country vehicles open randomly while the vehicle is in motion or while the vehicle is shifting into drive. Consumers have been told by authorized dealers that the cause of the problem is unknown.

Oxygen sensors have two basic functions: upstream sensors close to the manifold meter the amount of oxygen and burned fuel mixture in the exhaust; downstream sensors located near the catalytic converter monitor the catalyst efficiency. If too much fuel or too much oxygen is read by the sensor, it transmits the information via radio signal to the PCM, which then makes adjustments in the engine to correct the problem. Oxygen sensors wear out after a while and need to be replaced during regular maintenance schedule intervals.

Finding the Right Sensor

The hardest part of replacing an oxygen sensor is locating the correct one. Vehicles nowadays have at least two, but some can have up to four sensors. When the sensor fails to transmit or a noticeable problem in the fuel mixture is detected, the PCM will trigger the "check engine" light to alert the car owner that there is a problem. All vehicles built after 1996 have universal PCM plug-in sources called "DLCs," or "data link connectors." A scan tool or code reader will allow you to find out the problem or narrow it down by plugging it in to the DLC and then reading the code. But what if it says something like, "circuit failure sensor 1 bank 2?" Banks and sensor numbers are used to help identify the location of them in the exhaust system. "Sensor 1" indicates a forward or upstream sensor towards the manifold; "banks" indicate the split in the exhaust system, such as a Y-pipe coming off the engine or a genuine dual exhaust system. Bank 1 is most often located on the same side of the vehicle--left or right--as the number one cylinder. So sensor 1 bank 2 would be located upstream near the manifold on the opposite side of the number one cylinder.

Access

Access to some of the sensors nowadays is somewhat challenging. Most vehicle manufacturers place the oxygen sensors in conspicuous places that can easily be accessed. Others may make you wonder what they were thinking when they designed the exhaust system. There are tools to help make it easier for you and a trick or two that might work. Once youve located the correct sensor or sensors, unplug the sensor from the wire harness.

Tools

Oxygen sensor wrenches or sockets are available in most parts stores nowadays. Although they make the job a whole lot easier, theyre not magic wands. Limited access is still going to challenge you, and corrosion on the old sensor and exhaust pipe may be another obstacle. Remove the sensor once youve gotten the tool onto it by turning the tool counterclockwise. A degree of force will be required, but if it doesnt feel like its going to budge, heating up the portion of the exhaust pipe that surrounds the threads of the oxygen sensor might help. This can be done with a portable propane torch. Dont heat the sensor as well. Youre goal is to expand the exhaust pipe and not the sensor. Being careful not to burn yourself, retry removing the sensor with the wrench or socket until youre successful. If you dont have a torch, try running the car long enough to heat the exhaust system up for a while and then liberally spray lubrication oil on the sensor.

Replacement Sensors

Replacement sensors range in price from $50 to $120 a piece. Bosch makes a decent direct-fit aftermarket sensor made specifically for most vehicles at an affordable price. The dealership will sell direct-fit original equipment sensors, but will be on the high end of the price range. You may discover in your hunt for the best price that a universal sensor is available for many cars. This means the sensor can be wired in and used in more than one application non-specifically. Although its cheaper and sounds like a good deal, keep in mind that in addition to removing and replacing the oxygen sensor, youre going to have to cut and splice wires--that most likely will not color-code the same way on both ends. For a few dollars more, your money will be well spent for a name-brand direct-fit oxygen sensor made specifically for your vehicle.

There are a number of reasons to completely remove a truck engine, including refurbishing, replacing and general repairs. Each size and style of engine will have small differences, so the exact process of removal will be slightly different, but the basic procedure will remain the same regardless. The vehicles owners manual will provide the specifics for attachment locations and any model-specific tools that may be required. The procedure requires more than one person to work the overhead winch because the weight of the engine makes it dangerous for one person to handle.

Instructions

1

Park the truck on a level surface and set the parking brake. Open the hood and disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the retaining bolts from the hood hinges and remove the hood from the vehicle.

2

Place a bucket under the radiator drain valve. Open the valve with a socket wrench and drain all of the fluid. Disconnect the radiator hoses and electrical connections from the engine.

3

Place a bucket under the engine oil drain plug. Remove the plug and allow the engine oil to drain completely.

4

Disconnect all of the sensors from the engine. These may include, but not limited to the crankshaft sensor, temperature sensors, oil pressure sensor and throttle position sensor.

5

Disconnect the throttle cable. Disconnect the cruise control cable. Remove the ground straps connected to the starter and engine.

6

Disconnect the starter and alternator. Move them out of the way or remove them from the engine compartment depending on their location and whether they are inconvenient to the larger project.

7

Jack up the front of the vehicle and place jack stands under the axles for stability. Disconnect the exhaust pipes and crankcase breather. Disconnect the fuel lines and fuel injectors. Remove the throttle body and intake pipes.

8

Remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle. Remove the fan shroud, fan, coolant pump and water lines. Disconnect the vacuum lines. Disconnect any additional connections.

9

Remove the bolts from the engine mounting brackets. Depending on the model of engine, there could be anywhere from three to six mounting bolts. Remove the torque-converter and all of the belts.

10

Attach the overhead winch to the engine using heavy chains and hooks. Raise the engine slowly while one person steadies the engine to keep it from damaging anything. When the engine is completely clear of the engine compartment, swing it to one side and lower it to the ground.